Lilliane's Jewelry

Q: Do Old European cut diamonds sparkle less?

They do not sparkle less, they sparkle differently. Modern diamonds have a fast, splintered sparkle (like glitter). Old European cuts have a slower, bolder sparkle (like big flashes of colored light).

Fragile Beauty: How to Clean & Care for Vintage Jewelry

Austin Chaitman — Mon, 29 Dec 2025 20:50:26 +0000

Fragile Beauty: How to Clean and Care for Your Vintage Jewelry

There is a specific kind of heartbreak that happens when you notice a stone is missing from your grandmother’s ring, or when the luster on a vintage pearl necklace suddenly looks dull.

At Lilliane’s Jewelry, we believe that vintage pieces are custodians of history. However, that history comes with a catch: age makes jewelry fragile. Many couples visiting our Leawood showroom ask us, "Can I just pop this in the ultrasonic cleaner I bought online?"

The short answer is: Please don't.

In this guide, you will learn exactly how to clean your vintage treasures without damaging them, which stones are strictly "hands-off" for machines, and how to store your collection to prevent scratches.

The "Do Not Disturb" List: The Ultrasonic Trap

Modern ultrasonic cleaners use high-frequency sound waves to vibrate dirt out of nooks and crannies. While this is fantastic for a modern diamond solitaire in a platinum setting, it can be catastrophic for vintage jewelry. The intense vibrations can loosen old prongs, shatter brittle stones, or strip away protective oils.

Never put these in an ultrasonic cleaner:

Emeralds: Almost all emeralds are treated with oils to fill natural fissures. Ultrasonic waves can strip this oil out, leaving the stone hazy or cracking it entirely.
Opals: These are porous and contain water. The heat and vibration can cause them to "craze" (crack internally).
Pearls, Coral, and Turquoise: Organic and porous gems can be dissolved or discolored by the chemical solutions often used in these machines.
Foil-backed stones: Common in Georgian and Victorian jewelry, these stones have a thin sheet of metal behind them to reflect light. Water can get trapped between the stone and the foil, ruining the reflection forever.

Lilliane's Expert Tip

The "Shake Test" is a myth. You might hear people say, "Shake the ring near your ear; if it rattles, the stone is loose." Please avoid this! If a prong is worn thin—common in rings over 50 years old—shaking it might be the final force that dislodges the stone. Instead, bring it in for a professional microscopic inspection.

How to Clean Vintage Jewelry Safely

Cleaning isn't just about sparkle; it's about preservation. Dirt acts like an abrasive sandpaper. When dust and grime sit between your settings, they can slowly wear down the gold over time. Here are the two methods we recommend.

The Professional Choice: Lavish Foam Cleaner

For our clients who want that "fresh from the showroom" sparkle without the hassle of mixing bowls, we recommend and sell a product called Lavish. It is a bio-based cleaner that is safe for almost all gems (including pearls and opals) because it doesn't use harsh chemicals.

The Lavish Method:

Foam: Dispense the foam directly onto the jewelry. It clings to the piece, breaking down oils and lotions.
Sit: Let it sit for 10–15 seconds to work its magic.
Brush: Use the soft brush provided to gently clean behind the setting.
Rinse: Rinse with water and pat dry.

Stop by the store to pick up a bottle if you want to make your weekly cleaning routine easier!

The "In a Pinch" DIY Method

If you don't have Lavish on hand, you can use items from your kitchen—carefully.

The Solution: Mix a small bowl of warm (not hot) water with a few drops of mild dish soap. Avoid moisturized soaps or harsh detergents.
The Soak: Let the piece soak for 10 to 15 minutes. This loosens the grime.
The Scrub: Use a very soft-bristle baby toothbrush. Gently brush behind the stone and around the prongs. Do not scrub vigorously.
The Rinse: Rinse under warm running water—but always plug the drain first!
The Dry: Pat dry with a lint-free cloth. Avoid paper towels, as the wood fibers can actually cause micro-scratches on softer gold alloys.

Storage Secrets: Prevention is Key

Diamonds are the hardest substance on earth, which means they will scratch literally anything else they touch—including other diamonds, gold, and certainly your pearls.

Throwing all your jewelry into a single bowl or drawer is a recipe for damage. Here is how to store your pieces to maintain their value:

Individual Compartments: Use a jewelry box with dividers.
Soft Pouches: If you don't have a large box, keep each piece in its own soft fabric pouch or the original box.
Keep Chains Unclasped? No. Actually, keep them clasped to prevent tangling, but lay them flat if possible.

Not Sure If It's Safe to Clean?

If you have an heirloom piece and you are nervous about handling it, let us do the heavy lifting. We offer professional cleaning and prong inspections right here in Leawood.

If you are looking to add to your collection, browse our carefully curated Estate & Vintage Collection for pieces that have stood the test of time.

Q: Can I use vinegar to clean my gold jewelry?

A: We do not recommend it. Vinegar is acidic and can damage porous gemstones or specialty finishes often found on vintage gold. Stick to mild dish soap or a specialized non-toxic cleaner like Lavish.

Q: How often should I have my vintage ring prongs checked?

A: For rings worn daily, we recommend a professional inspection every 6 months. Vintage metal is often softer due to age, and prongs can snag and lift without you noticing.

Q: Is it safe to sleep in vintage jewelry?

A: It is best to take it off. Prongs catch on bedsheets easily, which can bend the metal or pull the ring off your finger during the night.

Q: Can I use Lavish cleaner on my Pearls?

A: Yes! Unlike many liquid dips, Lavish is bio-based and gentle enough for organic gems like pearls and opals. Just ensure you rinse them well and dry them with a soft cloth immediately.

Decoding the Diamond: A Beginner’s Guide to GIA Grading

Austin Chaitman — Wed, 24 Dec 2025 17:21:43 +0000

GIA Diamond Grading Explained

Decoding the Diamond: A Beginner's Guide to GIA Grading

Shopping for a diamond engagement ring is one of the most exciting times in a couple's life, but let’s be honest—it can also be a little overwhelming. You are suddenly thrust into a world of acronyms, scales, and terminology that sounds more like a chemistry exam than a romantic gesture.

We see this confusion often. Many couples visiting our Leawood showroom come in clutching a smartphone filled with research, asking, "Is an SI1 clarity good?" or "Do I really need a D-color diamond?"

The key to answering these questions lies in understanding the industry standard: The GIA Diamond Grading Report. At Lilliane’s Jewelry, we believe an educated buyer is a happy buyer. In this guide, we will strip away the jargon and explain exactly how the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) grades diamonds, so you can prioritize what matters to you and maximize your budget.

What is the GIA and Why Does It Matter?

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is a non-profit institute widely considered the world's foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones, and pearls. Established in 1931, the GIA is actually the creator of the famous "4Cs" (Color, Cut, Clarity, and Carat Weight) and the International Diamond Grading System.

Why is a GIA report important?
Think of a GIA report as a diamond's birth certificate and blueprint combined. Because the GIA is an independent third party with no financial stake in the sale of the diamond, their grading is unbiased and rigorous. When a diamond comes with GIA certification, you aren't just taking a salesperson's word for it; you have scientific verification of the stone's quality.

The 4Cs: The Pillars of Diamond Grading

To read a report effectively, you need to understand the four specific metrics the GIA analyzes. Here is how they break down, ranked by how much they impact the diamond's beauty.

1. Cut (The Sparkle Factor)

Many people confuse "cut" with "shape" (like Round, Oval, or Princess), but in GIA terms, Cut refers to how well the diamond’s facets interact with light. This is arguably the most critical "C." If a diamond is cut poorly, it will look dull, even if it has perfect color and clarity.

The Scale: Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, Poor.
What GIA Measures: They analyze brightness (internal and external white light reflected), fire (the scattering of white light into all the colors of the rainbow), and scintillation (the sparkle produced, and the pattern of light and dark areas).

2. Color (The Absence of Color)

For standard diamonds, the "best" color is actually no color at all. The GIA color scale measures the degree of colorlessness.

D-F (Colorless): The rarest and most expensive. To the naked eye, these look icy white.
G-J (Near Colorless): These offer excellent value. When mounted in a ring setting, it is very difficult to distinguish a G or H diamond from a D or E.
K-Z (Faint to Light Yellow): These stones have a noticeable warm or yellow tint.

Note: This scale does not apply to "Fancy Color" diamonds (like pinks or blues), which have their own grading system.

3. Clarity (The Purity)

Clarity assesses the presence of internal characteristics (inclusions) and surface irregularities (blemishes). Almost all diamonds have "birthmarks" because they were formed deep within the earth under extreme heat and pressure.

FL (Flawless): No inclusions or blemishes visible under 10x magnification. Extremely rare.
VVS1 - VVS2 (Very, Very Slightly Included): Inclusions are so slight they are difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification.
VS1 - VS2 (Very Slightly Included): Inclusions are minor and range from difficult to somewhat easy for a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification.
SI1 - SI2 (Slightly Included): Inclusions are noticeable to a skilled grader under 10x magnification.
I1 - I3 (Included): Inclusions are obvious under 10x magnification and may affect transparency and brilliance.

4. Carat (The Weight)

Carat weight measures how much a diamond weighs, not necessarily how big it looks (which is influenced by the cut). One metric carat is defined as 200 milligrams.

The "Magic Numbers": Diamond prices jump significantly at "magic" weights like 0.50, 1.00, and 2.00 carats. A 0.96-carat diamond looks almost identical to a 1.00-carat diamond but can be significantly more affordable because it falls just under that benchmark.

Lilliane's Expert Tip: "Eye-Clean" is Key

Don't get too hung up on achieving a "Flawless" clarity grade. At Lilliane’s Jewelry, we advise clients to look for "Eye-Clean" diamonds. An SI1 or VS2 diamond often looks identical to a Flawless diamond to the naked eye, but it costs a fraction of the price. We can show you how to use a jeweler's loupe to see the inclusions yourself, so you can decide if they bother you or not.

Fluorescence: The Forgotten Factor

At the bottom of many GIA reports, you will see a section for "Fluorescence." This refers to the diamond's reaction to UV light (like blacklight). Some diamonds emit a soft blue glow.

Is this bad? Not necessarily. In lower color grades (I-M), medium blue fluorescence can actually make the diamond appear whiter by canceling out some yellow tones. However, in very high color grades (D-F), strong fluorescence can sometimes cause the stone to look oily or hazy. This is why viewing the stone in person is vital.

Why Certification Protects You

A diamond without a grading report is just a shiny rock with an opinion attached to it. When you buy a GIA-certified diamond, you know exactly what you are paying for.

The report also includes a plotting diagram—a "map" of your diamond's specific inclusions. Since no two diamonds have the exact same inclusion pattern, this map acts as a fingerprint, proving the diamond in your ring is the same one described in the report. Most modern GIA diamonds also include a laser inscription (as seen above) for easy verification.

Ready to See the Difference in Person?

Reading about the 4Cs is a great start, but nothing compares to seeing the difference between a "Very Good" and "Excellent" cut with your own eyes. A GIA report gives you the data, but your eyes will tell you which diamond you truly love.

At Lilliane's Jewelry, we believe in a hands-on experience. We invite you to visit our Leawood showroom, where we can sit down with you, pull out the jeweler's loupe, and walk you through the grading report line-by-line.

Don't rely on photos alone—come let us show you exactly how to maximize your budget to get the most beautiful stone possible.

Have questions or want to set up a private viewing?

We are here to help you navigate the details.

Click Here to Contact Us or simply stop by the store.

Q. Is GIA better than EGL or IGI?

A. Generally, yes. The GIA is known for having the strictest and most consistent grading standards in the industry. Other labs may be more lenient, meaning a diamond graded “Color G” by another lab might actually be a “Color I” by GIA standards. For investment protection, GIA is the gold standard.

Q. Does a GIA report tell you the value of the diamond?

A. No. A GIA report is a quality assessment, not an appraisal. It tells you the scientific qualities of the stone (The 4Cs), but it does not assign a monetary value. However, the report is essential for an appraiser to determine the correct insurance value.

Q. Where can I find the GIA report number on my diamond?

A. Most modern GIA-graded diamonds have the report number laser-inscribed on the girdle (the thin outer edge) of the diamond. It is microscopic, but a jeweler can show it to you using a loupe or microscope to verify it matches your paper report.

Art Deco or Edwardian? How to Spot Your Jewelry Era

Austin Chaitman — Mon, 15 Dec 2025 16:16:05 +0000

Have you ever looked at a tray of vintage rings and felt a pull toward a specific piece, but couldn’t quite explain why? You aren't alone.

Jewelry isn't just metal and stone; it’s a history lesson you can wear. Each era reflects the fashion, technology, and mood of its time. Whether it’s the sentimental symbolism of the Victorian age or the bold rebellion of the Roaring Twenties, your preference often says as much about your personality as it does about your aesthetic.

Many couples visiting our Leawood showroom come in asking for "vintage," but they aren't sure if that means the lacy intricacy of 1905 or the geometric boldness of 1925.

In this guide, we are going to walk you through the three most popular eras in our Estate Collection: Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco. By the end, you’ll be able to spot Art Deco jewelry characteristics from across the room and finally put a name to the style you love.

The Victorian Era (1837–1901): Romance and Sentiment

Named after Queen Victoria, this era spans over 60 years, meaning the styles evolved significantly. However, the unifying theme of Victorian jewelry is sentimentality. The Victorians wore their hearts on their sleeves—literally.

What to Look For:

Yellow Gold & Rose Gold: This was the dominant metal of the time. Platinum was not yet widely manipulated for jewelry making.
Symbolic Motifs: You will often see snakes (representing eternal love, a favorite of Prince Albert), hearts, hands, flowers, and birds.
Old Mine Cuts: The diamonds from this era were hand-cut by candlelight. They are blockier and deeper than modern diamonds, with a soft, romantic glow rather than a sharp sparkle.

The Vibe: If you love poetry, deep meanings, and warm gold tones, you are likely a Victorian at heart.

The Edwardian Era (1901–1915): The "Garland" Style

When King Edward VII took the throne, the heavy, somber styles of the late Victorian era gave way to lightness and ethereal beauty. This period is often called "The Beautiful Era" (La Belle Époque).

The biggest game-changer here was the oxyacetylene torch, which allowed jewelers to work with platinum for the first time. Because platinum is so strong, jewelers could create incredibly thin, lace-like settings that were still durable enough to hold diamonds.

What to Look For:

Platinum & Diamonds: The "white on white" look was the height of sophistication.
Filigree and Lace: Think of fabric transformed into metal. The jewelry often looks like fine embroidery or lace.
Milgrain: This is a technique where tiny beads of metal are used to border the edges of a setting, adding texture and softness.
Feminine Motifs: Bows, garlands, ribbons, and wreaths were the standard.

The Vibe: If your dream wedding dress involves intricate lace and you love understated, airy elegance, the Edwardian era is your match.

The Art Deco Era (1920–1935): Geometric Boldness

Following World War I, the world changed rapidly. Women gained the right to vote, hemlines went up, and jazz filled the air. Jewelry shifted from the soft, flowery designs of the Edwardian era to something sharper, bolder, and more industrial.

This is the era we get asked about the most. To truly identify these pieces, you need to know the specific Art Deco jewelry characteristics.

Key Art Deco Characteristics:

Geometric Shapes: Gone were the flowing ribbons. In came triangles, squares, rectangles, and circles. The look was architectural, inspired by skyscrapers like the Chrysler Building.
Contrasting Colors: Art Deco jewelers loved high contrast. They mixed white diamonds with black onyx, blue sapphires, red rubies, or green emeralds to create striking, graphic looks.
Symmetry: Unlike the organic, flowing lines of the Art Nouveau period (which overlapped slightly with Edwardian), Art Deco is all about perfect, mathematical symmetry.
Step-Cut Stones: You will see more Emerald cuts and Asscher cuts during this time, which mirrored the clean lines of the era's architecture.

The Vibe: If you love modern architecture, bold fashion choices, and "The Great Gatsby," you are undoubtedly an Art Deco fan.

Comparison: Which Era Fits Your Lifestyle?

It isn't just about looks; it is also about wearability. Vintage jewelry requires different care than modern pieces.

Feature	Victorian	Edwardian	Art Deco
Primary Metal	14k/18k Yellow or Rose Gold	Platinum (often over gold)	Platinum or White Gold
Durability	Moderate (Gold is softer)	High (Platinum is tough)	High (Platinum & secure settings)
Sparkle Style	Moody, candlelight glow	Light, shimmering, airy	Sharp, bright, intense

Lilliane's Tip: Watch the Cut

Be careful with "Style" vs. "Period." A ring can be "Art Deco Style" but made in 2024.

To check if a piece is truly vintage, look at the diamond cut. If a ring claims to be from 1920 but has a modern "Round Brilliant" diamond (which wasn't invented until 1919 and perfected much later), it might be a reproduction or a replaced stone. Authentic Art Deco pieces usually feature Old European Cut diamonds.

Your Next Steps

Identifying your era is the first step to finding a piece of jewelry that feels like you.

If you fell in love with the bold geometry and history of the 1920s, we invite you to browse our Estate Collection. We curate these pieces carefully, ensuring they are authentic and inspected for quality.
If you love the look but worry about the fragility of 100-year-old metal, our jeweler can help. We can take those stunning Art Deco jewelry characteristics—like halos and geometric lines—and recreate them using modern, ultra-durable metals to create your perfect ring.

Come visit us in Leawood. Let’s pull out the trays and see which era speaks to you when it’s on your finger.

Q. What are the main Art Deco jewelry characteristics?

A. The primary characteristics of Art Deco jewelry include geometric shapes (triangles, squares, rectangles), symmetry, and high-contrast colors (such as diamonds paired with onyx, sapphire, or ruby). The style is architectural and bold, reflecting the “Machine Age” of the 1920s and 30s.

Q. How can I tell the difference between Edwardian and Art Deco rings?

A. The easiest way to tell is by the lines. Edwardian jewelry (1901–1915) is flowery, lacy, and feminine, often using filigree and garland motifs. Art Deco jewelry (1920–1935) is sharp, geometric, and symmetrical. If it looks like lace, it’s likely Edwardian; if it looks like a skyscraper, it’s likely Art Deco.

Q. Is Victorian jewelry safe for daily wear?

A. Victorian jewelry is beautiful but often more delicate than modern pieces. It is typically made of softer high-karat gold and may feature foil-backed stones that can be damaged by water. While you can wear it often, we recommend removing it before cleaning, showering, or exercising to preserve its condition.

Q. What is the difference between Old European Cut and Modern Brilliant Cut diamonds?

A. Old European Cut diamonds (common in Art Deco and Edwardian pieces) were cut by hand to maximize sparkle in candlelight. They have a smaller table (top surface) and a steeper crown, creating a “chunky” sparkle. Modern Brilliant cuts are mathematically optimized for maximum light return, resulting in a “splintery,” intense brilliance.

Old European Cut Diamond vs Modern: Which Sparkle is Best?

Austin Chaitman — Sun, 14 Dec 2025 21:01:08 +0000

There is a moment we see happen constantly here at our Leawood showroom. A couple comes in, looking for an engagement ring, expecting every diamond to look roughly the same. Then, we place a genuine antique ring next to a brand-new setting, and their eyes widen.

"Why does that one look... deeper?" they ask.

It is one of the most common questions we field: What is the actual difference between the diamonds of the past and the diamonds of today? While they are both composed of the same material—carbon compressed over billions of years—the way humans have shaped them has changed drastically over the last century.

If you are torn between the romantic history of an estate piece and the precision of a contemporary ring, you aren't alone. Today, we are breaking down the Old European cut diamond vs modern brilliant debate to help you decide whether you prefer the "disco ball" brilliance of the present or the moody "candlelight" glow of the past.

A Tale of Two Eras: Hand-Cut vs. Laser Precision

To understand the difference in sparkle, you have to understand the difference in technology.

Left: The deeper, chunky facets of an Old European Cut. Right: The precise symmetry of a Modern Brilliant.

The Old European Cut (OEC)

The Old European Cut was the standard for diamond cutting from roughly 1890 to the 1930s—the Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco eras. During this time, diamonds were cut by hand. Cutters relied on their eyes and the physical cleavage planes of the rough stone to maximize its weight.

Because they were cut by candlelight or gaslight (before bright electric store lights were common), they were designed to draw the eye in. They have:

Small tables (the flat top surface).
Steep crowns (the top angle).
Large "chunky" facets.
An open culet (a small flat facet at the bottom, which often looks like a tiny circle in the center of the stone).

The Modern Round Brilliant

Fast forward to today. Modern Round Brilliant cuts are designed using advanced mathematics and cut with laser precision. The goal of a modern cut is to maximize light return. When light hits the stone, the cutter wants as much of it as possible to bounce back up to your eye immediately.

These stones feature:

Larger tables.
Lower crowns.
Precise, symmetrical faceting.
A pointed culet (no hole at the bottom).

The Sparkle Test: Inner Fire vs. Surface Brilliance

This is where the magic happens. The physical differences in the cutting style result in two completely different optical behaviors.

The Modern Look: The "Disco Ball"

Because modern diamonds are engineered for total light reflection, they produce intense scintillation. This is that blinding, white-light sparkle you see in jewelry store commercials. It is sharp, fast, and electric. If you want a diamond that flashes across the room in a bright office or under sunlight, the modern brilliant is the winner.

The Vintage Look: The "Inner Fire"

Old European cut diamonds don't just reflect light off the surface; they seem to pull light inside. Because of those larger, chunkier facets, OECs display more dispersion—the breaking of light into spectral colors (rainbows).

We often describe the OEC sparkle as a "checkerboard" or "flower petal" pattern. It is a slower, warmer sparkle. Under low light—like a romantic dinner or evening candlelight—an Old European cut won't go dark; it will glow. It feels moodier and, many would argue, more romantic.

Lilliane's Tip: Embrace the Warmer Tones

In modern diamonds, customers often pay a premium for "Colorless" (D-F) grades because yellow tints can look dull against the sharp white sparkle.

However, Old European Cuts actually benefit from warmer colors (J, K, L grades). The slight warmth complements the antique "glow" and looks stunning in yellow gold or rose gold vintage settings. Don't be afraid to drop down in color grade to get a larger carat size when buying vintage!

Side-by-Side Comparison

Feature	Old European Cut (Vintage)	Modern Round Brilliant
Era	~1890–1930s	~1950s–Present
Production	Hand-cut	Laser/Machine-cut
Symmetry	Organic, unique, slightly imperfect	Perfect mathematical symmetry
Sparkle Type	Large flashes of fire (Rainbows)	Intense white brilliance (Scintillation)
Culet	Visible open culet (small hole)	Pointed (invisible)
Best For	Romantics who love character	Perfectionists who love maximum shine

Which Cut Suits Your Style?

Choosing between these two cuts isn't about which is "better"—it is about which personality fits your love story.

Reading about sparkle is one thing, but seeing it in person is the only way to truly know. Do you fall for the romantic, chunky fire of the antique, or the dazzling light show of the modern brilliant?

We invite you to visit our Leawood showroom to compare them side-by-side.

Visit Us to Find Your Perfect Ring

Q: Are Old European cut diamonds more expensive than modern ones?

A: Generally, no. While high-quality antiques are rare, OEC diamonds can sometimes be more affordable than modern cuts of the same carat weight. This is because modern diamond pricing is strictly standardized, whereas vintage pricing is based on rarity and market demand. You can often get “more carats for your money” with a vintage stone.

Q: Do Old European cut diamonds sparkle less?

A: They do not sparkle less, they sparkle differently. Modern diamonds have a fast, splintered sparkle (like glitter). Old European cuts have a slower, bolder sparkle (like big flashes of colored light).

Q: Can I put an antique diamond in a new setting?

A: Absolutely. Many of our customers choose a loose Old European cut diamond from our vault and have us design a custom, modern setting for it. This gives you the best of both worlds: the romantic, chunky facets of a vintage stone with the safety and style of a brand-new ring.

Q: Why do Old European cuts have a hole in the bottom?

A: That is called the “culet.” In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, diamond cutters cut the bottom of the diamond flat to prevent chipping, as the bottom point is the most fragile part of the stone. Modern setting techniques are more secure, allowing for the pointed bottom we see today.

What is Estate Jewelry? Why Craftsmanship Matters

Austin Chaitman — Mon, 08 Dec 2025 18:25:33 +0000

Have you ever looked at a ring and felt like it was holding a secret? There is a distinct weight and warmth to older jewelry that is difficult to find in the sparkling, yet often uniform, cases of modern big-box stores.

However, the terminology can be confusing. “Vintage,” “Antique,” “Estate”—these words are often thrown around interchangeably, leaving many buyers unsure of what they are actually looking at.

At Lilliane’s Jewelry, we believe that buying jewelry should never be a guessing game. Many couples and collectors visiting our Leawood showroom ask us: “What does ‘estate’ actually mean, and is it better than buying new?”

In this guide, we’ll demystify the terminology, explore the lost art of hand-fabrication, and help you decide if a piece of history belongs in your future.

Decoding the Dictionary: What is Estate Jewelry?

Let’s start with the simplest definition. Estate jewelry simply refers to any piece of jewelry that has been previously owned.

Contrary to popular belief, the term doesn’t necessarily mean the original owner has passed away, nor does it strictly imply the piece is hundreds of years old. If a piece was bought new in 2020 and sold to us today, it is technically “estate jewelry.”

However, within the umbrella of “Estate,” there are two specific categories that refer to the age of the piece:

Vintage: Jewelry that is at least 20 years old. (Think 1990s retro back to the mid-century).
Antique: Jewelry that is over 100 years old. (Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco eras).

The Lost Art: Hand-Fabrication vs. Mass Production

The most compelling reason to buy older estate pieces isn’t just the price—it’s the construction.

The Modern Standard: CAD and Casting

Today, the vast majority of jewelry—even high-end luxury brands—is created using Computer-Aided Design (CAD). A 3D model is printed in wax, and the metal is cast into a mold. While this allows for perfect symmetry and lower costs, the metal is often more porous (lighter) and the details are chemically etched or stamped.

The Estate Difference: Die-Striking and Hand-Forging

When you hold a piece of estate jewelry from the early 20th century or earlier, you are holding something that was likely die-struck or hand-forged.

Density: Die-striking involved slamming a heavy sheet of metal with a steel die under immense pressure. This created a ring that is denser, heavier, and more durable than modern cast rings.
Detailing: Look closely at the milgrain (the tiny beaded edges) or the filigree (fine wire work) on an Art Deco ring. In estate pieces, these were often applied by hand by a master goldsmith, not printed by a machine. This human touch gives the piece a “soul” and uniqueness that mass-produced items simply cannot replicate.

The "Green" Choice: Sustainability

In an era where we are all more conscious of our environmental footprint, estate jewelry is the ultimate sustainable luxury. No new mining was required to create the piece. No new energy was spent on manufacturing. You are essentially recycling a piece of art, extending its life and story.

Honest Considerations: Is Estate Right for You?

While we love the romance of estate jewelry, we value transparency above all else. There are factors to consider before falling in love with a vintage treasure.

Wear and Tear: Gold and platinum are durable, but not invincible. A ring that has been loved for 80 years may have thinner shanks (the band part) or prongs that need retipping.
Delicate Stones: Older cuts of diamonds (like Old European or Old Mine cuts) are tough, but accent stones like emeralds, pearls, or opals in vintage settings can be fragile and sensitive to water or chemicals.
Maintenance: Buying estate means committing to regular check-ups. We recommend bringing your piece in every 6 months to ensure the structural integrity remains sound.

### Lilliane’s Tip: The “Loupe” Test When shopping for estate jewelry, ask to see the piece under a jeweler’s loupe (magnifying glass). Look at the prongs holding the center stone. Are they worn flat? Do they lift slightly off the gem?
At Lilliane’s, we inspect and restore every estate piece before it hits our case, but understanding what to look for empowers you as a buyer. We love it when our customers ask to see the “under the hood” details!

Finding the Piece that Speaks to You

There is a magical moment when a client tries on an estate ring and realizes it fits their style perfectly—as if it traveled through time just to find them. Whether you are drawn to the geometric boldness of the Art Deco era or the romantic whismy of the Victorian age, these pieces offer a character that modern molds just can’t match.

However, we know that the “pre-loved” aspect isn’t for everyone, and that is okay!

For the Soulful Collector: Browse our curated Estate & Vintage Collection to find a one-of-a-kind treasure.
For the Modern Minimalist: If you prefer untouched perfection, view our Designer Collection for the best in contemporary craftsmanship.

Visit us in Leawood today, and let’s find the piece that tells your story.

FAQ

Q: Is estate jewelry cheaper than new jewelry?